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Kidz Eye View of Molokai
“Meandering on Molokai”
by Janis Hashe
Your family might have been to Hawaii — might even have been to Hawaii multiple times. But if you haven't visited Molokai, you probably haven't seen what Hawaii was like a generation or two ago, a way of life that still survives on the Friendly Isle.
 The view from the Hotel Molokai evokes old Hawaii. |
Molokai families are big and interrelated — all local adults are "aunties" and "uncles" and share genially in child rearing. You won't find swinging hangouts or video-discos: The closest thing is the Hotel Molokai on Friday and Saturday nights.
What you will find is a perfect opportunity for a real family vacation, one where everyone explores and relaxes together, and where, if you're friendly yourself, you'll be adopted into the laid-back Molokai community.
East Molokai: the sacred and the squawking
Molokai has the largest native Hawaiian population of the major islands, and is home to many sites sacred to the ancient Hawaiians. There's no better way to learn about this history than spending a half-day hiking up the Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls with Molokai native Pilipo. A historian and storyteller, he relates tales told to him by his father and grandfather, and explains the meaning of the ruins along the route. Once at the falls, you can take a dip in the cool waters of the pool. (Note: This hike can be somewhat challenging, so is not recommended for children younger than age 8. Use lots of mosquito repellent!) $25 per person. Reservations must be made at least a day in advance by calling Solotario, (808) 553-4355, between 5:30 and 9:30 p.m.
 Hawaii's state bird,  |
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A favorite spot for snorkeling is the south shore's Mile 20 beach, renowned among locals as so gentle that even little kids can play safely. Snorkelers spot tangs, angelfish, unicorn fish — and sometimes a young sea turtle.
At Molokai Horse and Wagon Ride, families with kids older than 5 can ride along the beach and then up to an ancient temple in the hills. If eight or more people sign up, the Rawlins family will arrange a wagon ride with cultural activities plus a meal of huli-huli chicken. $50 per person horseback riding or wagon ride, (808) 558-8380.
Accommodations on Molokai range from private homes for rent and bed-and-breakfast facilities to condos and hotels, but the recently reopened Hotel Molokai held a lot of memories for me. It was at this old-style hotel with private lanais and a restaurant built right on the water that I stayed during my first visit to the island 20 years ago. Still a great place for families, with big rooms (Some with sinks and refrigerators), it's probably not the choice for Friday or Saturday nights because of loud live music. Rates start at $78 in the off-season. (800)272-5375.
Central Molokai: the town that time forgot
There's only one real town on Molokai: Kaunakakai. Kaunakakai never seems to change, retaining the paniolo (cowboy) feel of a tropical Wild West. From the wharf, you can book sportfishing, sailing and whalewatching trips — but the best reason to come into town is to sample the famous Molokai Bread fresh from the ovens at 10 p.m. at Kanemitsu's Bakery.
Though undoubtedly Molokai's most famous destination, Kalaupapa, the former leprosy settlement that was home to Father Damien, does not allow visitors younger than 16. However, the mules still make their way down the precipitous trail, and in some cases, childcare for younger children can be arranged. $150 per person; Molokai Mule Ride, (800) 567-7550.
An interesting stop is the Coffees of Hawaii Plantation, where visitors can buy Muleskinners' Blend, among other locally grown coffees, and kids can enjoy a smoothie or an ice-cream treat. (800) 709-2326.
West Molokai: home on the ranch
 Tentalows at Kaupoa Beach Camp, West Molokai |
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Of the three camps, Paniolo Camp (with 40 tentalows, which are bungalow-like tents with bathrooms, showers and beds), and Kaupoa Beach Camp (also 40 tentalows) are available to families. Prices include breakfast (fixed buffet-style at a central location). A range of activities, including ocean kayaking, horseback riding, mountain biking and beach activities, can be arranged for an additional cost per day. One special activity is a "cultural hike," where remarkable ancient sites on the ranch's property are explained by a knowledgeable guide.
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 Beach at Kaupoa Camp, Molokai Ranch, West Molokai |
 Infinity Pool at The Lodge, Molokai Ranch |
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Or you can simply stroll into the tiny hamlet of Maunaloa to visit the Socher family at the Big Wind Kite Factory, which offers a great selection of kites, toys, books and important items, along with free kite-flying lessons. (808) 552-2364.
However you choose to experience Molokai, I can almost guarantee that in the true "aloha spirit," you will want to return.
Contact the Molokai Visitors Association at (800) 800-6367 or visit www.molokai-hawaii.com.
— Janis Hashe
Janis Hashe is a freelance writer specializing in travel and the performing arts. Recent adventures have included biking in France, rappelling in Utah, and getting stuck in the ice for 24 hours off Quebec.
NOTE: The prices listed above were accurate as of posting; we suggest you call for current rates before your trip.