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Kidz Eye View of France
“From Backroads in Brittany to Soaking in Evian”
by Janis Hashe
I pedaled around the curve, admiring the leafy beauty of the Norman countryside — and screeched to a halt. The Backroads van was parked in the middle of the road, and several of my fellow bicyclists were standing around, choking with laughter. I had missed the entire episode, which had something to do with a dog, an aged farmer and a vehicle going the other direction. I cycled off, mystified but smiling.
I mention this because it's the unexpected, the shared moving moment, the you-had-to-be-there story, that make a Backroads family vacation such an unforgettable experience. The fabulous locations, well-planned routes and superb guides don't hurt — but you'll go home remembering "the time we all played foosball soaking wet" or "the time when Jen and the van . . ."
 Cliff carvings at Rothéneuf |
For 22 years, Backroads has arranged active vacations — and recently, has greatly expanded its family offerings. For 2001, the company features 23 destinations, including Europe, North America, Latin America and the Pacific. Trips might include biking, hiking, rafting or kayaking. (Tip for moms: Fashionable, comfortable cycling gear is offered through the Athleta catalog. Call 888/322-5515 or visit www.athleta.com.)
I chose the Brittany and Normandy biking trip because the combination of beautiful scenery and historic sites was irresistible. Before joining the group in Rennes, Brittany, I checked out Bercy, a developing district of Paris in the 12th arrondisement. The Sofitel Hotel group offers its Invitation Enfants program on weekends throughout the year and during summer: a second room free for parents booking a room at the regular rate, and the Sofitel Hotel Bercy proved the ideal headquarters for exploring this area, which features a lovely new park and a trendy shopping/eating/cinema district within walking distance. (800-763-4835 or www.sofitel.com.)
On arriving by train in Rennes, our group rendezvoused at the train station — and were met by our guides, Jen and Stephane, who, because of the recent fuel strike, had biked in about 35 miles. (Good time to try to explain to kids about Europe, strikes and why gas is about three times more expensive than it is at home.)
Kids will adore the first hotel, the Manoir du Vaumadeuc, because of its castle-like atmosphere. That afternoon we biked to a fortress, the 13th-century Château de la Hunaudaye, perfect for swashbuckling and pretending to be knights. (The route options provided for family trips are shorter and less challenging than those created for all-adult trips.)
The next day, we found ourselves at Fort la Latte, another ancient fortress (this one overlooking the famous Côte d'Emeraude), and another opportunity to combine history with lots of exercise. (Note: The Backroads van and guides are on the route and check up on you occasionally. But one of the best things about the trip is that, after the morning orientation and a thorough review of the printed directions ["Veer left at the church"], you're on your own to bike the route at your own pace.) |
 Fort la Latte in Brittany. The Fort was used in the Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis film about Vikings, set in the 11th century. |
 Dinan in Brittany |
On jampacked Day Four, we toured the awe-inspiring cathedral island of Mont-St-Michel (a short version of this tour is available for kids), and the eccentric carvings of a monk at the cliffs of Rothéneuf, plus made an excursion into the shopping haven (and former pirate hang-out) of St-Malo.
Days Five and Six, in Normandy, were highlighted by a talk at our hotel by a member of the French Resistance, André Heinz (a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for today's children), and a visit to a goat-cheese farm where we met most of the resident goats.
 Pirate the goat, at a Normandy goat-cheese farm |
The Bayeux Tapestry, viewed on Day 7, is another living history lesson (as British schoolgirls giggled at "the naked guy"), and the first thing we saw as we coasted down the gravel driveway of our next hotel, La Cheneviére, was a mother hen and a flock of chicks. |
 A portion of the Bayeux Tapestry |
On Days 8 and 9, adults should bring handkerchiefs, because the routes include Omaha Beach, now tranquil in the Norman sunlight; the American Military Cemetery, Pointe du Hoc; and finally, the Caen Memorial, a multi-nation-funded "Museum of Peace." |
 Above: Museum of Peace in Caen |
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In exploring whether a Backroads vacation is for your family, keep the following in mind: Although you don't need to be athletes, everyone should be in good physical shape. Children's meals will be available, but not in the form of peanut butter sandwiches or chicken fingers. The whole gang should enjoy getting a taste of the real country — not a tour-bus-filtered one. If this describes you, you'll have the time of your life.
For a free Backroads catalog, call (800) GO-ACTIVE (462-2848), or visit www.backroads.com.
Do drink the water
Back in Paris, I raced through the streets to make a train to Geneva and a two-day stay at one of the world's oldest and most famous spa resorts, the Royal Parc Evian. And yes, one of the fun things to do in Evian is touring the water-bottling facility, where amazing, efficient machinery rolls out millions of bottles of the original "health water."
But the two hotels of the Royal Parc (the Hotel Royal and the Hotel Ermitage) themselves are outstandingly family-friendly, with well-planned, well-supervised children's programs (including an actual theater and pony-riding). The concierge staff will schedule family activities from skiing in the French Alps to whitewater rafting (depending on the time of year). We junketed over the Swiss border to visit the 11th-century Castle of Chillon, remarkable for its unique glimpse into medieval life.
Les Thermes Evian, the actual hot-springs facility, offers not only a complete menu of spa services, but a charming Evian Maman Bébé program, that, for the swim portion, also includes papas. Both Royal Parc hotel have extensive spa facilities as well — perfect for when the kids are off visiting a labyrinth in Switzerland.
For information about the Royal Parc Evian, visit www.evian.com/domaine.
— Janis Hashe
 Janis Hashe at Rothéneuf |
Janis Hashe is a freelance writer specializing in travel and the performing arts. Recent adventures have included biking in France, rappelling in Utah, and getting stuck in the ice for 24 hours off Quebec.
NOTE: The prices listed above were accurate as of posting; we suggest you call for current rates before your trip.